NordicTrack skiers are built to last and at one point in the 1990s, select models were sold with lifetime guarantees! Even so, all machines run smoothest when they receive regular care.
Basic maintenance should keep your machine running for many years (over 2 decades for mine!). In the event that a part eventually wears out, online third-party retailers provide NordicTrack replacement parts at an affordable price. Follow these tips to keep your machine running as smoothly as possible!
Products to Maintain NordicTrack Ski Machines
NordicTrack ski machines are built to last but will function best with a little TLC. These easy-to-find products will keep your machine running like new!
Applying paraffin wax regularly to the sides of the wooden skis can help ensure smooth gliding skis against the wood railings. Paraffin wax is widely available for purchase at online retailers including Amazon and at local hardware stores like Ace Hardware.
NOTE: Do not apply wax to the bottom of your skis!
Using a clean cloth with a small amount of mineral spirits can remove dark residue from the bottom of the skis. Mineral spirits are widely available for purchase at online retailers including Amazon and at hardware stores including Lowe’s, Ace, and Home Depot.
For an occasional squeaky wheel or a stiff arm exerciser, a couple of drops of 3-in-1 oil can quiet things down. 3-in-1 oil is a general-purpose lubricating oil sold for household and do-it-yourself use and is widely available for purchase at online retailers including Amazon and at local hardware stores including Lowe’s and Walmart.
NOTE: Do not use 3-in-1 oil (or any oil) on the drive rollers! Do not use spray lubricant on these areas!
To clean the flywheel, you will need a buddy to help, emery cloth, and paper towels soaked in rubbing alcohol. With someone else skiing on the NordicTrack, place an emery cloth on the flywheel to clean. Repeat for a few minutes until the flywheel is clean. Use the alcohol-soaked paper towels to remove any remaining black residue from the flywheel.
Emery Cloth is a general-purpose item sold for household use and is widely available for purchase at online retailers including Amazon and local stores including Walmart.
These household power players clean and absorb water with ease. Use them to wipe and clean the skier’s hip pad, chrome structure, and electronics.
Routine NordicTrack Ski Machine Maintenance
If you purchased a new NordicTrack, you should have received an owner’s manual with detailed instructions on how to maintain your machine. It is recommended to wipe clean the ski machines after each use. The manual provides additional step-by-step instructions for regular maintenance and provides a log sheet to keep track of the schedule.
NordicTrack maintenance instructions can be found in the owner’s manuals for items including flywheel assembly maintenance, rewinding the arm-exerciser cord, replacing the drag strap, and the items found below!
Lubricate the front and rear roller wheels with 3-in-1 oil
Every 3 months, it may help to add a drop of 3-in-1 oil on the axles of the front and rear idler wheels if they are squeaking.
Do not use spray lubricant. Do not add oil to the flywheel or drive rollers.
Lubricate the Brake Pad
The brake pad on the NordicTrack arm exercisers has been oiled at the factory, but if it becomes dry due to environmental conditions, follow the instructions in your user manual to add 3-in-1 oil where needed.
For NordicTrack ski machine repair of warranty-related issues, contact NordicTrack (or other seller) directly.
Hi There – we just got an old nordic achiever and when we really get going on it, there’s a spring or something that clatters and makes a lot of noise. it stops if we stop, but then clatters again. Any advice on how to fix that?
Hi Alyce, Thanks for this site! I just pulled my 1990s-era NordicTrack 505 out of storage. It seems to be in fine shape except the black bumpy footgrip pad has fallen off one of the skis. What do you recommend for a replacement gripping surface?
Hi Russell, instead of replacing the gripping surface on one ski, I recommend replacing the skis so that you will have uniform steps on both sides.
I have a Nordic Track Medalist Pro Plus, made in 1997, that I bought second hand. For the first while, it worked great, if a bit noisy. After some months, I had an intermittent problem where one ski felt like it was being “grabbed” at the back, causing me to stumble. I ordered new drive rollers, thinking that was the problem. In the meantime, I waxed the skis and oiled the idle rollers and the problem did not recur.
I put in the new rollers, and was careful to make sure they spun freely in the forward direction, and locked going backward. I then had a different and recurring problem–worse on the left side–where I’d get started, then the ski would suddenly “drag” on the forward stroke (always on the forward stroke). If I kicked at it a bit, it would then release and move normally for several strokes, then do it again. I could complete my workout, but would always have to be conscious of kicking forward as I went, which didn’t seem right to me.
The person who sold me the rollers was certain they weren’t the problem and suggested re-gapping the rollers. The method I was given by the seller was for the wooden ski machines, using a one playing card gap. That gap was too small for this machine, and the rollers did not turn easily in the forward direction. I re-gapped them using two playing cards, and that seemed sufficient to allow the rollers to turn easily. However, the problem was, if anything, worse.
I put the old drive rollers back in, also gapping using two playing cards, and the problem seemed to have been corrected, and the original “grabbing” at the back of the skis didn’t reoccur. However, after 5 months I am now getting the same problem with “dragging” of one ski that causes me to stumble except it’s now more on the right side than the left.
The problem is now intermittent, rather than nearly constant as it was with the new drive rollers. I’ll be going at a fairly fast clip for 10 minutes or so before this happens. Then it may not happen again for several minutes or at all for the rest of the workout. I can’t find this problem described anywhere, and I’m at something of a loss as to what to do. I really like the machine, but I’m wondering if I should just look for a different one.
Hi Colleen, that is one of the more limited editions of skiers that were made, so it probably will be a challenge to find specific information on that model. It sounds like you did your homework and did the correct maintenance for wooden skiers, but as with all second-hand items, it’s hard to know the history of the machine and what could be causing the issue.
Regarding potential issues with ski maintenance:
– when skis are waxed, only wax the sides of the skis
– if skis accumulate buildup on the bottom from contact with the rollers, use mineral spirits to clean the residue from the skis
– never wax the bottom of the skis
It’s also possible that it’s time to replace the drag strap or clean the flywheel. Check out the instruction manuals on the INFO PAGE for the machine that looks closest to yours (maybe the NordicTrack MedalistPlus) and see if you can spot something that may help you to get your machine running like new.
I have NordicTrack Pro from 1993. The bottom of both skis are worn to bare wood (in places). I am considering refinishing them to protect from warping… is this recommended? thinking of using a thin coat of wipe-on polyurethane (just on the bare wood areas) – is there another product that you would recommend?
Hi Rick, There are links to copies of the NordicTrack Pro user manuals on the FAQ page and they have more detailed recommendations for how to maintain your machine. The instructions state to never polish or wax the bottoms of the skis.
There are places online that sell replacement parts, and they would probably have a set of skis that you could order. Or maybe another reader can offer suggestions for revitalizing your skis. Good luck with the project!
I have a NordicTrack Pro from 1993. The bottom of the skis have worn through the finish to bare wood (in places). I am thinking of refinishing them… recommended? maybe a polyurethane? or what do you recommend? Want to protect them so they don’t warp…
I kept surfing and I see Chad recommends using the Solid Endroller Set of Eight as an upgrade to possibly solve the clunking problem. Upon inspection, I don’t see how to do this. If I could see the instructions on how to do this upgrade it would be wise before I order. Does anyone know how to find that instruction set?
Hi Frank, Your best bet is to ask the supplier who sells the upgrade kit for instructions on how to install their new endrollers. They may be able to send you the instructions for this before you make the purchase.
I have a Nordic Track Pro Plus Skier.
It has become increasingly noisier as the right ski now strikes the front idler on each pass. Still works, still provides excellent workout, just with the added “clunk” on each right side motion forward. I tried cleaning etc, swapping skis but no luck. I thought there would be an adjustment to lower the idler just a bit. Likely only needs to move down by 1/4 mm. No reference in owner manual and I cant see any way to lower that idler. Should I conclude that the machine is finished? Or does anybody know of a fix?
Love the exercise action of this machine and have kept in shape with it for 25ish years.
I’m just now seeing this so you may have already gotten your answer. I’ve had that problem in the past too. I found that it’s just warping of the ski. The way I resolved mine was to take the ramp (or bevel) at the leading edge of the skiier down until it presented a more gradual plane at the roller contact point. I did the same to the rear edge. You could use an electric sander with 60 grit paper to wear it down but I filed mine down first then sanded it smooth. Solved my problem. It’s been good for many years now…
Thanks for sharing Sam!
Hi, I have a nordic track skier and the front right idle nearing won’t stop squeeking nk matter how much I use 3 in one oil. Any suggestions to get it to stop squeeking?
I have two pro skier models. First was purchased 1979. Recently I relocated so I had to put one into temporary storage. Recently unpackaged it, set it up and put it to work. Discovered that occasionally while working out it seems to skip/slid/miss. When this happens I have no friction/grab/purchase for a stride or two. It recovers quickly, but it’s unpredictable when it happens. I’ve inspected the rollers, skies, and lubricated it properly. Something is hitting a “slippage” point and I cannot figure out or find the problem.
PLEASE help me out. I’ve been working out with my pro skiers for 40+ years and promote this machine to everyone I chat with.
PS: My second machine is newer and works perfectly. The first one did until recently (as described above).
Thanks again. I look forward to a reply from you.
Hi Lou, I’d be interested in seeing a photo of a 1979 Nordictrack model if you have one?
i have an old NT Pro, which I had to move. I removed the vertical piece and when I re-assembled the NT, the vertical piece wobbles to fro (back and forth) not side to side. The nut and bolt are tight and the pinch pin (not sure what it is called), is in securely. Any suggestion on how I can stop the wobbling?
I have an older Nordic Track, lost the manual, and mistakenly oiled the right drive roller- now it slips.
Is there a fix for this?
Hi Fran, Check for a digital copy of your manual on the FAQ page for future reference. I do not know of a way to effectively remove oil from the wrong places, so if the issue continues, you may need to replace that part. Good luck!
I had the same issue, and I fixed it by dribbling a little paint thinner onto the roller to wash off some of the oil. It worked! Not sure if it’s too late but good luck!
We have a NordicTrack Achiever model – not sure how old it is as we bought it used. It was squeaking quite a bit so my husband took some WD-40 to some moving parts…not sure which ones. I believe it was after that when the right drive roller started slipping so that there was no tension in the right ski.
After some research I found a manual online and tried using the trouble-shooting to figure out what was going on, but nothing pointed to just one drive roller slipping. I did note in the manual and in your post that it is not advised to oil the drive rollers. What happens if one does?
Any other thoughts on why just one drive roller would slip?
Thanks in advance!
Hi Brenda, A few people have mentioned having an issue like that, but I’m not aware of a way to fix it. You might want to consider replacing the part if the issue continues.
Hi I have a very old Nordic track skier and want to try and figure out if the top part where the cord is pulled from (round) can be rewound as the cords are just dangling now and I can’t figure out how to rewind them.
Hi Justin, I have not tried to rewind the cords for the arm exerciser, but if you are unable to wind the cords back to where they provide tension, you can replace the arm exerciser with a new unit. You can purchase a replacement online at NordicParts.
You can rewind them or replace them when you rewind them if they are damaged. One cord goes around clockwise and the other counter clockwise…the cords should NOT touch each other when going around the pully when in use….that will cause wear quicker.
2.5 turns each around each pully should be where you want to be…if you have longer arms shorten it up a bit.
A very generous friend gave me his NT Pro 1989 Model, because he does not plan on using it anymore. It’s working properly and have been properly maintained. After thoroughly cleaning and checking it over, I noticed the “plastic” slides on each side of the skis (2 per ski) are worn out to almost level with the ski sides. My question is, how to properly remove the slides and what tool or implement that i can use, w/out causing any problem. i already purchased the replacement slides (4).
Your assistance is greatly appreciated!
Hi Manny, Those plastic slides (ski glide buttons) are intended to prevent wood-on-wood contact and ensure a smooth exercise experience. Personally, I just use paraffin wax on the sides of the skis to get this effect.
However, since you already have the replacement parts, you may as well install them. Start by using a pick to remove the old glide buttons. To install the new glides, start by putting one end in first. Tap that end with a hammer (you may need to tap at a slight angle to make sure the glide button fits snugly) until it’s all the way in. Then use a hammer to do the same thing with the other end. Continue to tap until both ends are even. It should be a very snug fit.
Thanks for this reply. What is meant by a “pick”?
Hi Ron, you just need something that can grip the plastic ski slides and pull them out. Click here to see an Amazon listing for a set of picks: https://amzn.to/3EUGY7a
I bought a NT Pro this weekend, it is from from 1993 according to the date on the manual. The man I purchased it from tried to get it ready for sale and oiled everything with WD40, didn’t realize this was a no-no til I read on this site no oiling flywheels. Even the handles have a sticky residue on them. Unsure of how to get rid of all that oily buildup. The machine itself looks really good but that flywheel is sluggish. Any help as how to proceed would be much appreciated.
Hi Lily, You may have luck starting with the recommended flywheel maintenance (cleaning). Check the NordicTrack user manual for your machine for detailed instructions on how to do the flywheel maintenance (links to downloadable manuals are on the FAQ page).
Is there a significant difference between the standard black drive rollers and the red ones that I’ve seen (for example on nordicfitnessskimachines.com)? Have you tried the red ones and are they really an improved design and are they more reliable and long-lasting? I have been having issues with only one side of the skier slipping/jerky motion.
Hi, I have not personally tried those rollers, so I cannot comment on them. Perhaps another reader will see your question and be able to add some insight.
I have an old NordicTrack ski machine from the mid 1980s (best guess). I can’t find anything on it to identify the model or the serial number. There is a tag on the bottom that says “THIS QUALITY UNIT BUILT BY 01228258 PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL” but that’s it. It does not have an electric monitor, it’s a mechanical speedometer/odometer. After many years of disuse, I dragged it out, lubricated it up and started using it. It is absolutely wonderful and I use it every day. This week, thanks to a full week of daily use I got up to what looks like the recommended speed of 10 miles per hour. After about 10 minutes of this the flywheel seemed to shutter and the speedometer needle pegged at the maximum. I stopped, looked it over and everything appeared OK but when I started using it again the same thing happened much quicker. Everything says not to oil the flywheel so I haven’t. I did oil the speedometer cable but it didn’t make a difference. What is wrong and how do I fix it?
Sorry, its kilometers not miles per hour.
Hi Bill, It’s great to hear that you are getting new life out of your old NordicTrack!
However, I apologize, but I’m not exactly sure what your issue is (is it that the speedometer is off? is it that the flywheel is sticking?). Given how long it’s been since you’ve used your machine, I’d recommend that you go through the recommended maintenance for the flywheel assembly and see if it solves your issue.
P.S. I can’t imagine a scenario where you would need to oil any cables on a NordicTrack. This could likely break things or make things worse!
When I get the machine up to speed, (I’m using it daily) , it will be working just fine then all of a sudden there is a screech from the area of the flywheel and the speedometer pegs on the highest speed. I stop immediately and everything goes back to normal. I tried disconnecting the speedometer but it still does the screech. It is only when I go relatively fast. It does not happen at 5 kpm. I’ve looked at everything and I’m wondering if it could be the side board bearings. There is also a mechanism that turns the flywheel motion into turning the speedometer cable that could be the issue. I just can’t figure it out.
Previously I disconnected the speedometer at the speedometer which did not change the problem. This time I disconnected it at the flywheel and that solved the problem except now I can’t tell what speed I’m doing.
Hi Bill, I’m not sure what might be causing those issues, but you may be able to get some help from the online retailers who sell replacement parts for NordicTrack ski machines. Other readers have mentioned that the owners at NordicParts have been very helpful with these types of specific repair issues.
Hi, I just got a Pro Skier from the 90s. It seems to be working fine except that the drum the rope for the hand pulls starts smelling a bit like burning after a few minutes of use. Any thoughts on what might be wrong and what I can do to fix it?
A leather pad is under the large drum. This pad is to be serviced by removing the drum. Roughen the leather pad under the drum, put a few drops of 3in1 oil on the leather pad on the contact face to the drum. Explained: The friction on the leather pad and time drys it out. The leather gets polished by the large drum friction in use, and gets hot when dry and polished. Using a sand paper of coarse grit (like 80 grit) on the polished leather allows the surface to absorb some needed lubricating oil which keeps the leather supple, and reduces friction a little. The oiled leather doesn’t heat much. The smell of burning should go away, but you may smell the fresh oil a little, for a short time. Best wishes for good health and miles of nordic tracking.
I have an older Achiever model ski machine. Several years ago it was having problems that I could not fix so I bought a new machine. But it is not made of the same quality materials. I wonder if it’s possible to have the old one repaired. I remember many years ago someone trained by Nordic Track came to our house and removed worn-out pulleys. I would like to invest in the older machine so that I can resume the aerobic portion of my workouts. Any suggestions?
Hi Joel, A number of readers have had success rebuilding their old machines with parts (and some coaching) from the owners at NordicParts. It’s no longer possible to purchase new machines that are higher-end than the Pro (like your Achiever model), but you may find that swapping out a few of the wearable parts can fix your issues. Best of luck!
How do you make a comment on this site? I have a 1995 Achiever and although all the parts are there underneath, I made the mistake of adjusting the middle tension without being on the blades and now it’s bound up. All of the parts look fine – the two small springs and one big spring. I gave up talking with icon fitness as my Achiever manual and machine do not show a serial number and they will not help without one.
Hi Cindy, My guess is that your best bet to get your Achiever working again is to replace the part for the leg resistance. Other readers have found the owners at NordicParts to be very helpful – it might be beneficial to contact them for guidance and/or to purchase the replacement part.
Does anyone know what fabric material the flywheel tension straps were made of for the NordicTrack Pro?
Hi R R, The drag strap is made of a vinyl-like woven fabric strap. You can purchase replacement drag straps from NordicParts (they use the same material that has been used on NordicTrack skiers throughout the 90’s).
I have a BC-5062 Computer for the nordictrak that light up scans, but does not record any thing. I have tested the continuity of the cable from the post to the computer and all is well. Does this need to be replaced or can it be fixed?
Hi Bob, I am not aware of anywhere that fixes the computer monitors. If your machine is under warranty you may contact NordicTrack for a repair or replacement. If not, there are a few places that sell after-market electronic monitors – just keep in mind that it is likely to be a different model of monitor than the one you currently have.
I have an old Achiever from the 80s I believe that I started using again recently. I oiled and cleaned it and checked everything and it seems fine except for the skis make a loud clank when they each hit the front rollers. I can’t remember if this is just how it is. If not, what is it that I can do to address? Thank you! Very much appreciate your site.
Hi Colleen, The wooden skis can make a bit of a sound when they glide forward / against the front rails and rollers, but it shouldn’t be too much like a loud clank. Here are a few ideas you can try:
1. If you are just picking the exercise up again, make sure that you are doing the exercise correctly. Your feet should not lift the skis up off of the tracks, rather your feet should should gently glide the skis forward after each step.
2. Make sure the bottom of the each ski has been cleaned with mineral spirits and is free of any black residue from the rollers.
3. Add a thin layer of paraffin wax to the SIDES of your skis (never add wax to the top or bottom of NordicTrack skis) for smoother gliding.
Were you able to reduce the clanking sound? I have the same problem and wonder how to address it.
Hi Kristina, This wasn’t actually an issue that I was working on (I was answering Colleen’s question), but I would still recommend that you check those same 3 things if you are having similar issues.
Hi Alyce, I’ve tried all of your suggestions, and I’m still getting some noise on my Achiever when the skis first touch the front and rear rollers. It’s not very loud but it feels bumpy compared to the 505 that I have from 1991 that is absolutely smooth and quiet as the skis pass over the rollers.
I was thinking of shaving a little of the wood from the undersides of the skis just at the tips and tails to help smooth out the bumpy travel over the rollers. Does that sound like it would help?
I did try the skis from my 505 on the Achiever and it didn’t make a difference.
This site is a great resource.
I have NordicTrack Pro. The front right roller will not turn any longer. I’ve tried 3-1 oil, but it doesn’t help much. I’m not sure how to remove the pin that goes through the roller. I will gladly buy a new roller and pin, but I’ll need to remove the one that is there first. It may be obvious, but any help on how to remove the pin and roller would be great. Thanks!
Hi Jeffrey, I would recommend that you reach out to customer service at NordicParts.com and ask about the best way to proceed.
I have a Nordic Track Pro 30 purchased in 1991 that has a BC 886 ll computer that the pulse function has quit working. Sometimes shows 46 bpm and sometimes in the 90’s. Neither seems correct. Any suggestions? A new ear clip?
Sorry I don’t have an answer for erratic pulse problem. It is pretty common among the different monitors. I would like to know if you have the manual for the BC-886II workout computer. Many people online have searched for it. If you can make a PDF copy that would be most appreciated. You can send the file to 800artfreed at gmail dot com.
I have a Nordic Track Medallist Plus manufactured in 1997 which is in good condition but the power adapter is missing. On this model the digital console is used to control the fly wheel tension. Do you have any suggestions on the specifications for a power supply replacement or where to find one?
Hi Philip, That isn’t a model that I am familiar with, nor is it a model that is currently made. It’s probably going to be a challenge to find parts for it.
You may have some luck at NordicFitnessSkiMachines.com or by monitoring online used-item sales websites like ebay.com and shopgoodwill.com for used parts.
I have a NordicTrack 1001 from 1994. I used it every day until about 10 years ago….I’ve started using it again, on a daily basis, about 3 months ago. Recently I am having problems with both skis slipping. I have to catch myself so I don’t fall. I see using mineral spirits is to be used on the bottom of the skis is recommended. Do I use anything to clean the rollers? They appear to be soiled. I don’t want to make the problem worse.
Hi Cheryl, With the age of your machine, it’s probably time to replace the driverollers. Unfortunately, I cannot find much information about the “1001” model online, but you may have luck by contacting NordicParts.com to speak to someone about which specific part your ski machine needs.
I”m on my fifth Nordic Track machine over the past 30 years. Four were Pros and this year I found a Pro Plus, a dream machine that fixed any shortcomings of the Pros. I’m good at overhauling and maintaining them using the vendors you’ve listed for replacement parts. To the point: Is there a way to freshen up the flywheel drag strap instead of replacing them once they glaze after about 40 hours of use and start to tug? I’ve rigged snap swivels on both ends to get four uses per strap but they get expensive since I train 90 minutes a day 6 days a week.
Hi Robert, You sound like you have a lot of experience with machine maintenance and repair. I haven’t ever heard of this part wearing out so quickly, but it sounds like you’ve had to deal with it quite a bit. Kudos for finding a way to extend the strap life with your own rigging skills!
I looked into this issue online, and it seems that others have had some success by lightly scuffing the glazed parts of straps with a scotchbrite pad, wire brush, or sandpaper to refresh them a bit. Be sure to clean any residue from this process before reusing the belt on the machine. Hope that helps!
You might try replacing or just lining the strap with a material that has either a higher melting point or higher “glass transition temperature, Tg”, Tg is a narrow range of temperatures above which a polymer softens and deforms more easily, but below its melting point (if it has a m.p., not all polymers have melting points). Kevlar is a possibility and is used for Model T transmission band replacement, a similar application.
You also could try webbing of natural fibers, maybe canvas or linen, or leather which in the bad old days often was used for band brakes such as this. There are a variety of impregnated leathers made for industrial purposes, some of which are very tough. I believe the original Model T bands were leather.
I have a couple of questions about your cleaning steps!
1) When you say “apply paraffin wax” do you mean take the block and rub it along the sides of the skis, or do you mean melt it and spread it and then scrape off?
2) Can you explain a bit more about how to put the emery cloth on the flywheel? I am not sure how to do that while I have my sister ski!
3) The leather strap which is under the arm wheel seems very tightly pressed between the metal and the plastic wheel. How do you suggest I remove it for the mineral oil step you suggest?
Thanks for your help. Resurrecting the Nordic Track after ~20+ years. So far it works great (knock on wood) but thought I would follow your steps to keep it up.
How exciting that you are getting back on your 20+ year old NordicTrack skier!! Here are some quick answers to your questions:
1. TO WAX THE SKIS: simply take the block of paraffin wax and rub it along the SIDES ONLY of the skis (this will help minimize friction between the sliding wood skis and the frame of the machine)
2. TO CLEAN THE FLYWHEEL: remove the drag strap, place the emery cloth on the flywheel while your helper skis on the NordicTrack skier. Repeat for a few minutes (until the flywheel is cleaned). When finished cleaning the flywheel with the emery cloth, use a paper towel soaked in rubbing alcohol to remove the black residue off the flywheel.
3. TO OIL THE LEATHER PAD (under the arm cord drum): remove the top knob to lift the arm cord drum up 1″ then place a few drops of 3-in-1 oil on the leather pad
Hope that helps and that you enjoy your workouts!
Thank you very very much!!
Regarding maintenance, do you have pictures so show where the lubrication should be added? I’ll appreciate any guidance you can offer.
Hi Pat, Unfortunately I do not have any photos to share, but there are 3 places that should be lubricated:
– SIDES of END ROLLERS at each end of the ski machine
– LEATHER PAD (under the arm cord drum) – remove knob to lift the arm cord drum up 1″ then place a few drops of 3-in-1 oil on the leather pad
– ARM EXERCISER BEARING (on top of the arm cord drum)
send me your email and i will forward all the pdf manuals I have on nordic track machines. They illustrate the maintenance processes for the flywheel, drag strap, idle roller axles and sides of the skies.
800artfreed at gmail dot com
I’m the original owner of a Pro Plus model. I’ve bought other equipment but have never found as much enjoyment as I have with this type of exercise. Recently, the right hand ski seems to be hitting the front glide roller on the right hand side. I tried swapping the skis (to check if one was warped) and it still happens. I took the front rollers out and swapped sides. Still it makes a popping sound when the right ski hits the front right roller. There’s no slippage on the right hand ski. And I cleaned off all residue under both skis. The right ski just seems to be pounding the front roller each time the ski hits it, making it quite noisy. Anyone have a clue what it could be by chance?
You described my issue perfectly; one ski lightly taps the guide wheel. I’m brand new to this, but having read Nordic parts, I believe the ski is warped, but they sell a set of different wheels which they say week make it quiet again.
The thin black wire came out of the upright tube. Is there a way to fix it? My parents had an old Nordic Track Skier from the late 8O’s, it was black. I used the heck out of the thing. I had to get rid of it a few years ago. I loved the workout that I got from it, so I found a NT Pro on Craigslist in great condition. When I went to pick it up, the older gentleman wasn’t familiar with folding it up and tried to take it apart instead. That’s when the wire came undone from the monitor jack. I didn’t have the heart to walk away without it and figured I would just try to fix it. It can obviously be used without it, but I though I would try. Thank you.
Hi Shae, It’s hard to tell where the problem is that you are describing, but you may be able to solve your problem with a new “monitor power cable“. Follow the link to NordicParts.com to learn more and purchase if that seems like it will help.
It’s the thin black wire that is connected by the wheel. It runs underneath the the skier and up the metal tube in the front. It must send a current to how fast you are going, etc. It must connect up where the monitor jack plugs in. It’s not the monitor power cable. Thank you!
Hi Shae, Unfortunately, that sounds like it’s an uncommon repair and there may not be a standard replacement part available for it. I looked around online but didn’t see anything.
However, I still recommend that you contact the customer service at NordicParts.com, as reader Steve recently shared that he had a great experience with them (he spent over an hour on the phone with the NordicParts.com website owner to help diagnose the issue on his old machine).
I hope they can help you as it’s definitely nice to get the speed and distance feedback from the monitor!
Thanks so much. Enjoy the rest of your weekend and stay well. 🙂
Depending upon where the wire is broken, splicing or reattaching it may be a straightforward task for a competent electronic hobbyist (look for an amateur radio operator or club), or an electrical engineer or electronic technician. Some independent smart phone and computer repair shops also are possibilities, as are small appliance repair services.
If the wire came out of the tube does it still have the female connector attached? This means a small threaded ring or nut has fallen off. This part is a standard electronic chassis connector for the 3.5mm plug used on the connector to the electronic workout monitor. You can order a new connector with the nut. You will just use the ring or nut to re-attach the connector to the vertical tube
To re-thread the cable take a length of garden string trimmer replacement “cord”. Use something no thicker than .80″
fold about 1/2 inch over at one end. Now push the trimmer string through the hole until the folded end comes out at the bottom. Carefully push the doubled over tip of the string into the connector. Not too far. Slowly pull the string and cable back up. It will come out of the hole. Using a replacement nut or ring, place it on the other end of the string letting it slide toward the connector and screw it onto the thread of the connector. Use a small needle nose pliers to tighten the ring. Remove the trimmer string.
If the wire has broken off the connector remove the nut or ring, let the connector fall out the bottom. Re-solder the the wire to the connector. I advise trying to put each wire through the tiny hole in each of the tabs from the connector for additional strength. If you don’t know how to solder it is possible to remove the “pickup” from near the flywheel where the wire goes and bring it to a repair shop. They can solder it for you. Then use the technique above to re-thread it into the vertical tube.
My right ski slips backwards suddenly on my Nordic Track Pro Skier. Works ok when I take short strokes, but when I get more aggressive and use longer strides, it slips, probably when my foot gets just past the roller. Is this a maintenance issue? Or do I need to replace a roller?
Hi Barry, You can start out by troubleshooting / checking on the easier fixes and maintenance first. Clean any excess oil on bottom of the skis with dry cloth and clean black residue on bottom of skis with mineral spirits / paint thinner. Make sure the flywheel is tight and even on the flywheel axle.
If this doesn’t help and only your right ski is slipping, then you may need to replace the drive rollers. Visit NordicParts.com to find the right parts for your Pro ski machine.
Hello, I have a Nordic Track Skier Achiever Model from circa 1990. It is still in great shape. I am now doing the maintenance so I can pull it out of my basement and start using again during the pandemic lockdown. I have the Workout Computer BC-886 II and I put some batteries in and it seems to be working, too. I just need to get a hold of a manual or other instructions for how to use the BC-886 II. Where can I get remedial lessons on it? 🙂
Also is there any chance of getting the pulse plug in and SPD plug in for it? Those are missing.
Hi Richard, It appears that there is an ebay seller who has copies of the BC-886 II manuals available for sale for $4.95. I cannot personally vouch for the seller, but they do currently have a 100% customer satisfaction rating on ebay (click here to view product listing). The cord may be harder to find, but you may also have luck if you search occasionally on ebay. Good luck!
Here are links for the “ear clip pulse cord” and the “monitor cable” at NordicParts.com. Hope these help!
After 20 years in storage, I just reassembled my NordicTrack 5000 Ski machine (1998) (same as Pro model) and I was looking forward to using it during this Coronavirus lockdown.
As I stepped onto it, I somehow managed to break the hip pad bracket. My question is: do you really need the hip pad?
I used the machine a lot after I bought it and I recall thinking that I used to apply very little pressure to the hip pad at all.
I’m based in France so to have a new bracket sent from US is likely to be expensive and take an age. Thanks in advance.
Hi Bob, The only forward pressure that you put on the machine is at the hip / on the hip pad. You are going to need to have this piece available so that your body has something to push off against. When it’s adjusted properly, you don’t really feel it or notice it, so it’s understandable that someone might think it’s not needed. 🙂
If it’s either aluminum or steel and broken, it probably can be brazed or welded (you could start by asking at an automotive body shop), or maybe you can fashion a sheet metal bracket and screw it together. Depending on the nature of the break, a “structural epoxy” adhesive may work (it will need sufficient surface area to hold). Look for a structural epoxy as these have a bit of “give” to them (the opposite of brittle). The 3M product “2116” comes to mind. JB Weld, sold in the US and maybe elsewhere, also has a good track record.
I have a NordicTrack Sequoia model that has a sticker on the underside saying it was built in December 1993. It no longer holds the tension after I adjust the arm-resistance adjuster knob (that anchors the cord drum). Once I set the tension and start working out, the knob spins counter-clockwise until all the tension is gone.
NorditTrack was a dead-end since they say they have no parts for models prior to the buy-out. I contacted a company called fitnessrepairparts.com who said they couldn’t help me if I couldn’t find the serial and model numbers. I have scoured this machine backwards and forwards, mulitiple times, and I simply can NOT find the serial number. I have the original owner’s guide that says to remove the label on the invoice and keep it and I suspect that label had the serial number but the invoice is long gone.
1. Do you know where I can find the serial number on the machine? In some images I’ve seen online, there’s a white sticker underneath the warning labels. On mine, the warning labels are still there but no sticker with serial/model numbers.
2. From my description, do you know what’s wrong with my machine, what parts need to be replaced (if any) or what maintenance I can do to fix it?
3. If I can’t fix it, can you help me locate the parts I need to fix it? Given the shelter-in-place we’re all living with, this is my only option for a good workout and we’re likely to be in these circumstance for some time. I’d REALLY like to get this fixed.
Thank you so much for any help you can offer!
Hi Steve, My best guess is that your issue might be coming from the arm exerciser bearing. From the NordicParts website:
You may need to purchase a kit to replace this mechanism to get your machine running smoothly again. Visit NordicParts.com for a wide variety of NordicTrack ski machine repair and maintenance parts.
Just want to take a moment to thank whoever is replying to these posts. Not only were you very, very helpful (and prompt), you put me onto NordicParts.com where the owner spent almost an hour on the phone with me, helping decide what I did (and didn’t) need to get my machine running again. It’s rare to get such helpful, quick, and free advice so generously so I want to thank you in public. You’ve also inspired me to be that kind of person to others. Much appreciated!
Thanks Steve! I’m very happy to hear that NordicParts.com was able to help you out as well!
We have a NordicTrack Skier built on 03/23/93
It is still in excellent condition
It looks identical to the current Pro Skier Model except for the digital display
The rollers at the extended top of the unit Have become dirty, discolored or moldy looking
Can I disconnect it, remove/ unroll the left and right strings, clean them and reassemble it?
Can the strings just be cleaned in soap and water?
Do they need any special coating or treatment before reinstalling them on the roller at top ?
What benefit does the digital display provide?
Can it be retrofitted?
What does it cost?
Hi Frank, You can try starting with a general tune-up of your machine. Kits are available on NordicParts.com website at: https://www.nordicparts.com/NordicTrack-Skiers/Wood-Style-Skier-Parts/
If there are any issues after you do a tune-up, then troubleshoot those issues individually until it’s back in like-new condition!
I have an old 1992 NordicTrack Achiever model 0344 that’s been stored in a bedroom for years. It works great for about 8- 10 minutes, then the left ski gradually increases resistance until the gauge needle indicates about 25 -30. At that point, something releases and the needle vibrates, and the machine makes a loud clacking sound. If I stop, get off and wiggle the flywheel, then I can resume my exercise for about another 8-10 minutes before this repeats.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what is going wrong? Or how I can fix this problem?
Hi Carol, The Achiever model has a bit of a different tension mechanism (a dial / knob) than the Pro model (which has a lever). It may be that the machine would benefit from a new tension mechanism. From the NordicParts website:
Somehow the skinny black cord or something on the arm resistance pulley has become jammed on my NordicTrack Achiever. The red dial is stuck between 0 and 2 on the kgms side and about 3 lbs on the left. It won’t go beyond that. I can’t pull on either the left or the right handles at all. The right handle is now slightly shorter than the left side. It has been grabbing a little lately but now it is completely stuck. I love my NordicTrack. Please help! The ski part is working just fine but not the arms.
Hi Caroline, The Acheiver was one of the more premium models but the Achiever model is no longer manufactured. Depending on when and where you purchased your machine, it may still be under warranty with NordicTrack. Contact NordicTrack customer service directly at (877) 993-7999 and hopefully they can help diagnose and fix your issue.
I purchased my NordicTrack Pro Skier in the late 1980s; it is a generational piece of equipment. I think I have maintained it well, but of late the arm exerciser loosens during use. As you pull, the center piece turns to the left and lowers resistance until is slack and completely out of synch with leg exercising. Is there any way to remedy this? Would an additional nut of the same size (please share that dimension) set on top of the arm resistance tightener work? I’d appreciate any and all of your thoughts on the matter.
Hi Thomas, It sounds like you are describing that you have an issue with the arm resistance mechanism losing it’s resistance. If this is the case then a refresh of the arm resistance mechanism may solve your problem. NordicParts.com has complete overhaul kits — and — they also have a lot of individual parts if you think that may solve your issue at a lower cost. I’m not exactly sure what the specs would be on a machine from that era, but if you need additional help you can try calling NordicParts at 612-205-5243.
Hope that helps — it’s great to hear that you’re still getting use from a machine from the 1980’s!
How do you change the distance from KPH to MPH on a nordictrack pro? It has a BC 886 II model computer.
Hi Liz, I’m not sure how to change the distance from Kilometers or Miles (or the speed from KPH to MPH). The NordicTrack customer service (877) 993-7999 may be able to point you towards a solution though. Good luck!
I have several units. The ski on the right side slips. Any advice on how to fix it? I really like it and would like it to work properly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
That is a very specific issue and with limited informaiton about the unit / wear, I cannot imagine what would be causing it. I recommend that you try contacting the NordicTrack customer service at 1 (877) 993-7999 to see if they can provide a solution.
Hay.i have a Nordic track prow I bought at a yard sale .fixing it up .how do I get the stickers for the side of the unit .thanks.ps I realie like it .j.w.
Hi J.W., If you would like a “Pro” model sticker for your machine, they can be found at https://www.nordicparts.com/pro-decal-sticker-set.html
We have the Achiever and are trying to find a new tension strap. Can you send me an email with a direction to take to locate one.
Hi Thomas, You can purchase a new acheiver drag strap at https://www.nordicparts.com/drag-strap.html
My parents used to have one of these back in the 90s. I’m not sure what happened to it but I would love to find it and get it working again.
If it is not possible to find it, are the nordic track pro skiers still the best in the market or are there better models out there now?
Hi Craig, If you can find your parents old NordicTrack Pro Skier, then it’s probably still in great working shape. There were many models made in the past, but today the only model still made is the Pro. The Pro was always the best-selling model and has all of the features that the NordicTrack skiers are known for.
Thanks for visiting NordicTrackProSkier.com